Writing from Rijeka, Croatia, 11/03/2006

Left Plitvice yesterday after one more hike around the lower lakes. I had expected it to be grander, but to me it was just as beautiful as the upper lakes, but no more. Based on what I read, I believe the water is flowing less this time of year than in the Spring. However, I was glad I waited for the lower lakes. It rained Wed evening and night. Everything was wet and VERY cold (around freezing). It snowed lightly while we were hiking. Only took 3 hours to hike around the lakes - boy was I glad. I was tired and cold by the end.

Walked along side the lakes on the way down and then climbed up to the top of the cliffs for the return trip. The 100 or so steps up to the top were stone, wet, and covered in leaves; no hand rails (good thing it wasn´t the states, they would have been sued for sure). As many of you know, I tend to fall on steps (I fell hard going up the steps of a church in Prague). All the way up, I kept thinking "don´t fall, mom will really be mad if I die here", so I walked very carefully (it also gave me an excuse to stop and breath along the way)

Left for Rijeka in the afternoon. The drive was not bad, except periodically ran into light snow. We continued to see lots of abandoned and bombed out buildings. A couple of cities had what seemed to be memorials. As we got close to the coast again, we had lots of switchbacks - I was glad Cathy was driving. In one of the near-coastal cities, saw a cemetery that reminded me of New Orleans - everything was above ground in crypts.

Rijeka was not originally in our plans, but was trying to find a way to Venice for a few days since ahead of schedule and seen enough of the medieval castles. Unfortunately, Croatia closes all avenues out after 11/1. Seriously, all boats and most buses do not operate in the off-season. After several hours on the Internet, we decided to go to Vienna a few days early.

Spent the night in a hotel in Rijeka. It was okay, but definitely the worse place we have stayed yet. The shower has a hand-held spray. Not unusual for Europe, but usually, there is a holder for the sprayer. Not here. You had to hold it in your hand when when you needed it, then let it drop down to spray your feet. I was cold most of the night because the heat was not very strong, however the draft through the window was. Breakfast was as nice as any we have had. Spent as much for one night as we did for two nights in the "sobes" (means rooms in Croatian, what they call the private apartments/rooms we have stayed at).

So we are off to Pula today, and then flying to Vienna late afternoon. Hard to believe it has only been a little over a week since we arrived. Also hard to believe we will be leaving after Vienna. But I am looking forward to returning to "home". I never thought it would take 22 years to return. I am sure it will not be the same as I remember, but I look forward to being re-introduced to the city.

My time is up. Write you later.