Arrived in Oslo after a 6 hour train trip + nothing exciting out the window, but the time went really fast. We had 170 Kroner left (~$30), and knew the train was the last chance to spend it (each country we've visited has their own money), so we bought lunch, and then went back later and spent all our money on sandwiches, fruit, and water for later (i.e. dinner).
My first impressions of Oslo was not good - the street outside the train station was a huge, gaping hole, the people standing around outside were smarmy-looking, had a few beggars approach us, and, worst of all, there were no rooms anywhere in town (do I look like Mary?). The nearest hotel open was an hour away on train for $350.
We finally got two beds in a four bed room (so we could end up with up to two other people in our room). They call it a hotel, but it is sort of a blend of hotel and hostel - a great breakfast is included (more of a European brunch), we sleep in bunk beds (I get to relive my childhood, and this time I get to sleep on the top bunk), and towels are extra (luckily I brought by micro fiber camping towel - it works great for wringing out clothes after I wash them).
Only one of the other beds was used last night. It was a lady in her 70's (her husband is in a male room). They are from Boston and have been in Russia this past month. They are going to the fjords tomorrow. They have been traveling like us, getting rooms once they get to towns in pensions or homes. They did not have any towels, so she used her pillowcase and he used his duvet cover (beds are made with a flat sheet on the bottom, with a feather comforter covered in a fresh duvet cover folded over the bed). He said it was the best towel he's ever used.
After settling in, we walked around the center city (after eating my cheese sandwich from the train for dinner). We walked up to the palace, down to the national library (it was closed, which is the reason you did not get an email yesterday), and then to Frogner Park. Oslo redeemed itself somewhat with the large number of lilac bushes still in bloom (who can be sad when they are breathing in the scent of lilacs).
Frogner park is a huge grass park (175 acres), which Vigeland (forget his first name) "decorated" with almost 200 statues before his death in 1943. The park was filled with lots of people, mostly in groups, enjoying the warm weather and bright sun (sunset was ~11 pm, but it was dusk until sunrise). People were barbecuing (they sell disposable grills here, which are just foil pans with charcoal in the bottom and a grill on top, supported on a frame with a butane flame underneath), talking, playing games (among others, I saw a volleyball game and some other game which they stood on separate ends and threw sticks into the middle where other sticks lay), etc. I was surprised to see so many people out at night given it is a weekday, but my guess is they enjoy the long days and good weather while they can.
Today, we went to the Viking Ship and Kon Tiki museums.
The Viking Ship museum had three ships from 900 AD which had been used for burials. Two of the ships were in amazing condition, and the tools, cooking instruments, textiles, and animals help us understand more about they life of the vikings back then. Unfortunately Cathy left her camera in the bathroom by accident and someone stole it. Since I brought two cameras and some extra SD cards, I was able to give her one of the cameras to use for the rest of the trip (sort of a paying it forward from the Kenya trip when I didn't have a camera and the friend I made loaned me her spare).
The Kon Tiki museum is focused on Thor Heyerdahl, who is known for proving that people of South America, given their knowledge and resources at the time, could have sailed on a balsa wood raft (called Kon Tiki) to the Polynesian islands and settled there (it took him and his 5 man crew 101 days to arrive). He did a similar voyage for Morocco to Barbados (this time aboard a reed raft named Ra), and Ethiopia to Samaria. He also spent time on Easter Island digging up ancient ruins.
We me a couple on the boat back from the museums who were American and also carrying the Rick Steve's Scandanavian book, so we started up a conversation. They too said it has become their favorite tour book. They are doing a similar two week trip, except they are skipping Finland and the fjords, and flying to a Norwegian Island in the arctic circle then taking a cruise to various islands up there. It sounds very cool.
It's interesting, I thought Oslo would be my favorite big city, and Copenhagen my least favorite. Instead, I would put Copenhagen at the top of the list (I liked Stockholm, but Copenhagen has done a better job at keeping it's European quaintness, while Stockholm is more like any big city (with tons of parks). Oslo is third on the list, and only because Helsinki was definitely my least favorite (glad we didn't plan to stay long there). Oslo is typical big city, like Stockholm, but does not have as much character. By the way, my understanding is that if you are into late night partying, Helsinki and Stockholm have lots of opportunities, which is consistent with the young people I saw going out as we were going home (don't I sound old).
Anyway, I think that's it for now. We leave for the fjords tomorrow. Not sure the Internet access in Belestrand, but I will try to keep on writing emails as I can.
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