So here are my last thoughts on Scandinavia:
Favorite Things:
- City: Balestrand or Copenhagen, very different settings. Balestrand was small, little to do, but great to just relax and recuperate. Copenhagen was a big city, but kept it's European ambiance.
- View: Absolutely the fjords. I love waterfalls, and they were everywhere.
- Museum: Copenhagen's National Museum - the whole museum was great, but the prehistoric and "Stories of Denmark" wings stood out as the best for learning about Scandinavia. (Stockholm's Vasa Museum does come in a close second.)
Memorable Experiences:
- Bicycles in Copenhagen - bikes were in all the cities, but the Danes were unique in the volume, type (mostly 1 speed that looked like they were left over from WWII), way they left them (they were never locked, you just trusted it would be there when you returned), bike lots instead of car parking lots, and best of all, their multi-tasking (carrying packages, talking on cell phones, etc).
- Hiking in Levi - the weather was great, the view was wonderful, but the best was finding our own unique way down from the mountain. Of course I could have done without the foot in the mud and the sliding down the toboggan run, but that just made the memory more interesting.
- The glaciers - it was great to see the glaciers. The efforts I went to find a path closer to the glacier, when all I had to do was walk up the shore still makes me laugh, but the best part was the people we met and the laughs we had together. It's amazing to think that on that day, only Americans took the tour, and we got along so well.
Notable trends and happenings in Scandinavia:
- leggings are back - at first I put it down to the biking (leggings under skirts makes perfect sense), but we saw it in younger people going out (leggings with longer shirts over the top), and people just walking around. Reminded me of the 80's.
- ski poles - I never knew these would make good walking sticks until this trip. In every city, we saw people (usually older) walking around with ski poles as walking sticks. Once or twice, I the person was younger (probably 50's), and didn't appear to need them, but still carried them around just in case.
- cobblestones - these are a pain to walk on after a few hours. Every city had at least one area of cobblestones, and in some cities, you could not escape them. I really prefer our concrete sidewalks and streets.
- Parks - Scandinavians do love their parks. The portable BBQ grill business, which is booming here plays perfectly to this. This is their social arena and opportunity to enjoy the days of sun. We need more of this at home.
Alright, time is running out, so this is it. No more emails. Thanks for joining me on this trip around Scandinavia. See you all soon.
It's hard to believe it's our last day :(
Bergen is cold and damp - colder than the Lapland/arctic area! But first a recap of yesterday, since I couldn't get to a computer on Sunday (options are surprisingly scarce in Bergen).
Was serenaded to sleep by a band Fri and Sat night. Our timing was good, as they left Sunday on the same boat we did. I found out they are a subset of a 50 member band from Bergen. They periodically travel around in smaller groups to give free concerts at towns along the fjords. It was funny to see all the townspeople (kids and adults) come down from their homes at 10:30-11 pm to enjoy the band - it was like a Andy Griffith show. Remember, it was still very light, so starting that late only interrupted sleep (which I think they tend to limit in the summer anyway to enjoy the sun).
Went to the Anglican church right outside our hotel Sun morning. They provide services during the summer months using visiting English pastors. The pastor was great - he tried to get those attending involved in both the morning service and the one Sunday evening. We sang songs from a hymnal, but they were words only, no notes - gave me a taste of what some of the congregation feels when we sing praise music they don't know and show words only (luckily I knew two of the songs). It helped that the person behind me knew all of the songs. Frank, the guy from Paris showed up as well. Communion was a little different than I was used to (Cathy says it's similar to the catholic church). The sermon started with a joke (it must be a standard practice here as well). And was simple, personal, and applicable (the fruit of the spirit, joy).
The boat ride to Bergen was not as much fun as getting to Balestrand because the heavy cloud cover and cooler weather made standing outside too cold. I think I've taken all the pictures of the fjords I need to anyway.
It was spitting rain yesterday when we arrived, but not so uncomfortable that we couldn't get out and walk some. We met the couple from the glacier trip for drinks, then ate at Peppe's Pizza - pizza is huge here, so we had to have it at least once. Their pepperoni is more like kielbasa, but otherwise it was good. Mine had pepperoni, BBQ chicken, green pepper, and onion.
I will send a final perspective (if I can slip it in before I get kicked off this machine, you'll see it soon, otherwise whenever I can get to an Internet again).
Wow, today has been a full day. We woke up early to go to the glacier tour. I was glad they did not squeeze us in yesterday. They were packed yesterday (I'm guessing 50-60). Today, there were 7 of us. First we met two ladies in their 70's from Sacramento on the boat and talked with them a while. We had a 1 1/2 hour boat trip up the fyærland fjord. Then we took a short bus ride to two different glaciers.
We were not able to get close enough to touch or walk on either glacier, but they were cool to see. They have a blue tint at spots, which I found intriguing. This is were ice has recently split off, and ice will absorb slightly more red and yellow light, and less of the blue. Once the exposed ice has a chance to melt a little, or snow falls on the ice, the blue appearance will go away. The other fact I learned about these particular glaciers, is that they are moving 2 meter/day down the mountain.
The second glacier had a lake in front of it. As I was leaving the lake, I found a path through some woods I thought would get me a closer shot, and being curious, and always up for a good picture, decided to see where it took me. I walked through tree limbs, carefully over rock in a creek, balanced on some tree limbs someone had put in the really muddy areas. Finally I came to a rope with a sign saying to go no further, so I stood on my toes, lifted my camera as high as I could to get a close shot. I was so excited at what I had done to get a good picture, and I had not fallen into the water or mud. Then I turned to go, walked a few feet and noticed people just to the left of me where the lake was - the shore of the lake actually went to the same place as my path, with only a small step over a little water. And the picture was much better since there were no trees in the way.
After the glaciers and a trip to the glacier museum, the bused dropped us in the town where the boat would meet us for a 3 hour wait. At first, I figured it was a tourist trap, and they were using this to get us to buy there food and souvenirs. Not exactly. This town had a market (i.e. grocery), hotel (oldest in Norway), church, and about 5 bookstores (seriously). The only food was in the backyard of this place, where they had set up 6 or so tables and had a grill on the back porch. Our choice of food was hamburger, hot dog, or spicy sausage, served with potato salad. By now, the 7 of us had become a group, so we walked the "town", looked for the oldest grave in the church cemetery (1833), and ate lunch. We got to know each other better. All but one are taking the same boat to Bergen tomorrow. Two of the ladies are on our same flight home. The 7th guy is an American who has lived in Paris for the last 20 years; he just came from Bergen.
After we got back, 5 of us (minus the older ladies) bought a six pack and drank beers on the pier, then the guy from Paris joined us for dinner (the other two had dinner already pre-paid at their hotel). Before I knew it, the day was over, and it was time to go back to the room and pack for the last leg of our trip. In some ways, its like I've been gone forever, but yet it's hard to believe it's almost over.
So anyway, on to Bergen.
We were not able to get on the boat to the glacier today - it was full. So we got reservations for tomorrow.
Today, we are going to take advantage of this beautiful, quiet town in the middle of the fjords. I went back to sleep for another hour, did a few errands, then sat on the pier with my feet in the water. It was cold! I kept having to take them out. The sun was out, and it was warm, but not uncomfortable. Perfect day to be lazy.
I met a friend. Vanessa is 12 years old. She used to live in Germany, but moved here a few years ago. She knows a little English, so between that, hand motions, and my small German (I have forgotten so much), we talked for about half an hour. She overslept, so missed school today. She said the are a few hundred in her school, which surprised me. It seems like such a sleepy town, mainly tourists. She walks to school, and based on were she described, it is probably a 2-4 mile walk. As we were taking, she noticed a beer bottle, and started collecting plastic and glass bottles that people had left behind or in the trash. Over here you get money when you return them. She made 19 kroner (~ $4). Reminded me of when we were kids and used to look for pop bottles by the side of the road as we walked to the "little store" (they were worth a whole 5¢!).
Went biking this afternoon. The bolt that kept the bike seat in place was stuck, so I had to ride with the seat a little short (what adult is renting this bike with legs shorter than me?). The really sad part was when an older couple (probably in their 70's) passed us up. Then when we decided to turn around because we hit another uphill and had enough, and a young girl comes flying passed us on her way home from school. When we started out, I realized that it is mostly downhill, which bad news for the return trip. I was really worried as we turned around, but it must have been more gradual than I thought. We stopped at one point and sat on a bench for a while, and the next thing I knew,we were back. I felt like I could go further, but that was only because the very end was downhill. I'm guessing the first time I would have had to go uphill again, I would have wanted to turn back. Why is it that an hour+ at the gym is not the same as an hour+ in the real world?
Grabbed a sandwich from a bakery and fruit and beer from the market (as small as it is, I can't really call it a grocery), then went back to our hotel and ate on the balcony. Basically we spent the rest of the day enjoying the view, absorbing the sun, and being lazy. I guess I could also consider it a day to rejuvenate for the last few days, as it sounds like tomorrow will be a full day and we will likely try to cram a lot into the 1 1/2 days in Bergen (it will take us a half day fjord boat ride to reach the city).
By the way, my hair is lightening - almost going blond. I wonder if the Nordic features are catching. If so, I want the long legs and skinny body everyone seems to have.
Got back to our room last night after a walk around the fortress to find a clothes tornado had hit our room. We had new roommates, two young Asian girls (l'm guessing 18-22). They're clothes & paraphernalia were all over the room. When we walked in they moved their stuff to their side of the room (they saw our suitcases, they had to know we were returning). It actually did not bother me since I had already packed to leave and did not need the room - I just thought it was funny. I did have to laugh when they went to bed before us (hah, we are not old).
Left this morning for Balestrand on the Sognerfjord, after a train ride from Oslo to Myrdal, an old-fashioned train ride to Flam (pronouced "flome"), and a boat ride on the Sognerfjord. The train ride was fun. Three of the 12 window in each car could be lowered part way. I had the only one on my side of the train. We pretty much stood the whole hour, and when anything exciting happened on my side, I let everyone know they were welcome to use the window to take a picture (it was a better picture than through the window). I noticed another group doing the same thing in the back on the other side. The third couple sat at their window, seldom taking a picture and looking out the bottom. If anyone came over to take a picture, they would not say anything, but neither did they move to let us in or made us feel welcome - what a waste old the "good" window. I feel like I got to know most of the others. Like the whole car was part of a party, and the one family just sat in a corner. As you can tell, I was really bothered by it, but to me, we all are likely to do this only once, and everyone deserves a chance to get good pictures. Besides, it made it fun.
On the train, I talked for a while with an older couple from Dallas. They travel often (they're part of a travel club). I asked them their favorite place (I do this all the time with people who travel frequently). They mentioned New Zealand and Hawaii.
Later on the boat, I met a woman from Australia, whose husband is from Croatia, and son is living in The Netherlands and applying for citizenship (talk about cosmopolitan). We spent most of the boat trip talking and snapping pictures.
The view both from the train and boat was fantastic – lots of snowcapped mountains, waterfalls from the melting snow, quaint towns, etc. We stopped on the train for 10 minutes at a waterfall that almost soaked us (reminded me of "cave of the winds" at Niagara falls, but not as large. You had to rush a picture, jump in the train to dry your camera your, then attempt another picture.
We are staying in Balestrand, about halfway through the Sognerfjord. The town is not that big, but I think I heard 12,000 people live hear. After dinner, walked around the town (and I mean, literally around the town). It was about 4 km. There is an old church right in front of our hotel, some Viking burial mounds (all you see are two small hills), and a few old “traditional houses” (which means a Swiss-style house with dragon decorations on the house-their self-proclaimed attempt to create a Norwegian-style of house). We also stopped at a small, stone beach. It was covered with mussels - I've never seen so many on the beach.
Well that’s it for now. Hope to visit the glacier tomorrow. Will try to email again, but finding an Internet that works with Time-Warner is tough. I may have to switch to AOL.
Arrived in Oslo after a 6 hour train trip + nothing exciting out the window, but the time went really fast. We had 170 Kroner left (~$30), and knew the train was the last chance to spend it (each country we've visited has their own money), so we bought lunch, and then went back later and spent all our money on sandwiches, fruit, and water for later (i.e. dinner).
My first impressions of Oslo was not good - the street outside the train station was a huge, gaping hole, the people standing around outside were smarmy-looking, had a few beggars approach us, and, worst of all, there were no rooms anywhere in town (do I look like Mary?). The nearest hotel open was an hour away on train for $350.
We finally got two beds in a four bed room (so we could end up with up to two other people in our room). They call it a hotel, but it is sort of a blend of hotel and hostel - a great breakfast is included (more of a European brunch), we sleep in bunk beds (I get to relive my childhood, and this time I get to sleep on the top bunk), and towels are extra (luckily I brought by micro fiber camping towel - it works great for wringing out clothes after I wash them).
Only one of the other beds was used last night. It was a lady in her 70's (her husband is in a male room). They are from Boston and have been in Russia this past month. They are going to the fjords tomorrow. They have been traveling like us, getting rooms once they get to towns in pensions or homes. They did not have any towels, so she used her pillowcase and he used his duvet cover (beds are made with a flat sheet on the bottom, with a feather comforter covered in a fresh duvet cover folded over the bed). He said it was the best towel he's ever used.
After settling in, we walked around the center city (after eating my cheese sandwich from the train for dinner). We walked up to the palace, down to the national library (it was closed, which is the reason you did not get an email yesterday), and then to Frogner Park. Oslo redeemed itself somewhat with the large number of lilac bushes still in bloom (who can be sad when they are breathing in the scent of lilacs).
Frogner park is a huge grass park (175 acres), which Vigeland (forget his first name) "decorated" with almost 200 statues before his death in 1943. The park was filled with lots of people, mostly in groups, enjoying the warm weather and bright sun (sunset was ~11 pm, but it was dusk until sunrise). People were barbecuing (they sell disposable grills here, which are just foil pans with charcoal in the bottom and a grill on top, supported on a frame with a butane flame underneath), talking, playing games (among others, I saw a volleyball game and some other game which they stood on separate ends and threw sticks into the middle where other sticks lay), etc. I was surprised to see so many people out at night given it is a weekday, but my guess is they enjoy the long days and good weather while they can.
Today, we went to the Viking Ship and Kon Tiki museums.
The Viking Ship museum had three ships from 900 AD which had been used for burials. Two of the ships were in amazing condition, and the tools, cooking instruments, textiles, and animals help us understand more about they life of the vikings back then. Unfortunately Cathy left her camera in the bathroom by accident and someone stole it. Since I brought two cameras and some extra SD cards, I was able to give her one of the cameras to use for the rest of the trip (sort of a paying it forward from the Kenya trip when I didn't have a camera and the friend I made loaned me her spare).
The Kon Tiki museum is focused on Thor Heyerdahl, who is known for proving that people of South America, given their knowledge and resources at the time, could have sailed on a balsa wood raft (called Kon Tiki) to the Polynesian islands and settled there (it took him and his 5 man crew 101 days to arrive). He did a similar voyage for Morocco to Barbados (this time aboard a reed raft named Ra), and Ethiopia to Samaria. He also spent time on Easter Island digging up ancient ruins.
We me a couple on the boat back from the museums who were American and also carrying the Rick Steve's Scandanavian book, so we started up a conversation. They too said it has become their favorite tour book. They are doing a similar two week trip, except they are skipping Finland and the fjords, and flying to a Norwegian Island in the arctic circle then taking a cruise to various islands up there. It sounds very cool.
It's interesting, I thought Oslo would be my favorite big city, and Copenhagen my least favorite. Instead, I would put Copenhagen at the top of the list (I liked Stockholm, but Copenhagen has done a better job at keeping it's European quaintness, while Stockholm is more like any big city (with tons of parks). Oslo is third on the list, and only because Helsinki was definitely my least favorite (glad we didn't plan to stay long there). Oslo is typical big city, like Stockholm, but does not have as much character. By the way, my understanding is that if you are into late night partying, Helsinki and Stockholm have lots of opportunities, which is consistent with the young people I saw going out as we were going home (don't I sound old).
Anyway, I think that's it for now. We leave for the fjords tomorrow. Not sure the Internet access in Belestrand, but I will try to keep on writing emails as I can.
Had another late morning, sitting around the community area of our "pension" (hey, if he wants to call 10 rooms on the 6th floor of a building a pension, who am I to argue), drinking tea and making a high level itinerary for the rest of our trip. We leave for Oslo tomorrow morning; have our top 3 list. We leave for the fjords on Thursday, and get 4 1/2 days in the fjords (yea!).
Spent the afternoon in the Vasa museum. The Vasa is a ship built in 1628. It took 3 yrs to build and 20 min to sink (<1 mile from shore). Luckily for us, it sank intact and in waters that are not as salty as the ocean. In 1957 the ship was found and after 5 years of effort, raised out of the water (talk about patience). Then they spent 29 years restoring it (it is 95% original material). The cause of the sinking was the extravagant top (which made it top-heavy), that was not offset by adequate ballasting. The blame is a combination of:
* poor decisions in order to show off (firing cannons as leaving, which meant sailing with the gun holes open and letting water in),
* poor management (it failed the stability test so they knew it was not sea-worthy, but everyone was afraid to tell the king, who was insistent it sail for...), and
* lastly poor know-how of the period (dimensions were typically based on previous ships, but this ship was unlike any built at that time (an experiment that failed).
Not only the ship was intact, but much that was in it. They found butter casks with 333 year old butter (I assume they didn't eat it), pottery with the glaze still brightly colored, personal items, etc. The skeletons of the few that died and the belongings found with them were used to show what the people looked like and how they lived (they had busts that looked eerily real). Lastly, there was a section on how the people lived in that era, mostly relative to those on the ship (most were conscripted into the army, most were commoners with a poor upbringing (the rich paid someone else to take there place), poor 4 orphaned were put into forced labor), justice was determined by townsmen (no lawyers), etc
Ate dinner outside at the main square in Gabla Stan (old town). A well was built here, which is what attracted people to this square. I was attracted by the pretty buildings and winding roads. After a great meal, we listened to musicians who had set up in front of the Nobel building to play classical music. The waiters brought us blankets to wrap around ourselves since the tall buildings put us in the shade. Made it back home just in time for a gorgeous sunset.
That's all for now, better go get ready to leave early tomorrow (we catch an 8:30 bus downtown).
