Arriving, Part 1, 07/16/2007

TBD

And Now the End is Near..., 11/06/2006

This is my last email. I feel like I have been traveling forever, yet it's hard to believe it has been two weeks. I could get used to the life of leisure...

So my last report. We went to a Mozart and Strauss concert last night. They played mostly upbeat songs and brought humor to the show. Two singers and two dancers appeared periodically as well. My favorite song was Champagnergalopp (Champagne Gallop) - the girl dancer kept stealing the champagne at a picnic and pretended to get drunk. Sat next to a couple from South Bend who used to live in Pittsburgh - got a lot of grief about the Browns.

Visited Schonbrun today then walked around the city. Those royals really know how to live! On the other hand, most of them died young and unhappy. Walked forever. (I know what else is new, but my feet really hurt right now.) Meant to get over to where I used to live, but got dark before I knew it. I am sure nothing would have been the same anyway.

So overall, this has been a great vacation. A little crazy at times, but I never got bored. My favorite by far was Plitvice (I wouldn't mind going back there sometime when it is warmer). But Vienna will always be in my heart. Dubrovnik and Prague were okay to visit once, but too touristy for me.

See you guys soon.

Special Edition - Iimpressions of Croatia, 11/06/2006

Meant to get this out right after we left Croatia, but forgot in the craziness of the first few days here. 

1. Sobe signs everywhere - rooms for rent in Croatian
2. No dryers - everyone hangs their clothes 
3. Many abandoned, crumbling buildings - combination of bombed out or old and not torn down 
4. Starless skies - always seems to be cloudy even when the day was clear (season?) 
5. Friendly tourists 
6. Small knives and huge spoons (bigger than our tablespoon) 
7. Western music everywhere 
8. Advertisements in English (8because it's cool) 
9. Really old buildings, really should say ancient since >1000 years is not unusual 
10. Stone or cobblestone sidewalks and streets 
11. Bare mountains (Romans stripped and never grew back)
12. Yellow city sign with name crossed out when leaving city 
13. Limited public toilets - if find one, must pay attendant to enter
14. Driving - all signs are ignored (speed, passing zones, etc.) & everyone parks on the sidewalk 
15. cigarette smoke - everyone smokes everywhere

And Finally, Vienna, Austria, 11/05/2006

Hi. Things have been crazy since hitting Vienna.

First Pula. Drove by the roman amphitheatre, took a picture, then got back in the car and left for the airport (a la Chevy Chase's Vacation) because we were worried that we needed more than 2 hours to change our reservations and catch the plane. Boy were we wrong. There are only 2 flight times a day out of Pula, 6 am and our 3 pm to Zagreb (some days they do an 11 pm to London instead of the afternoon flight to Zagreb). So, the airport is basically closed until 1 hour before the flight. We decided it wasn't worth going back to town, so sat at a more or less empty airport until 2 when people arrived and lights were turned on. Then our airplane arrived - the kind that still has propellers. So about 15 of us got on a plane that holds 46. The funny thing is that there were two customs officers for all 15 of us. When the plane stops, we go to get off, but luckily the stewardess stopped us - unlike or original flight, this one stopped in Zadar first.

Arrived in Vienna just fine. While I went to information to see about a place for the night, Cathy paid the bill for two cokes we had had, which cost just under 5 euros. She was so used to kunas in Croatia (6 to the dollar), that with out thinking she round up the bill and left a 10 euro - about $12! Found a pension in the center of town for a good rate - not the character I was hoping for, but great location and friendly people.

On Saturday, it was cold and mix of snow and rain.  Visited St. Stephen's church - huge, >800 years old.  Went for a horse & buggy ride around city - mainly to stay warm. Decided to go to northern suburbs for dinner - known for their wines. Got on wrong train by accident and ended up 30-45 minutes outside of city. Our 3 day transportation pass did not cover the train, but luckily the conductor took pity on us a just told us to get off at next stop without charging us. We got on a return bus we thought was "legal", only to be told by the next conductor that we were outside the zone for our pass. He too took pity on us and did not charge us. When I told him where we were going, he informed us the stop no longer exists. We got off at the one just passed that. Then we realize there is no restaurants and the next subway is not due for 30 minutes. Saw a bus and got on it figuring anywhere was better than there; besides we were freezing. Ended up at a pub only a few stops from our pension, just 3+ hours later. The restaurant we found had a pub atmosphere. I got both of my favorites - wiener schnitzel & goulash soup.

After yesterday's crazy day, today is tame. Had to change to the hotel we pre-paid for. Not as fond of location, but otherwise okay. Went on a tour of the southern Vienna Woods about 30 minutes outside the city (no need to do the north after last night). Visited a convent where 8 nuns and the mother superior have taken vows of silence (couldn't do it!). Used to be a hunting lodge for the royal family, but when prince killed himself there, turned into convent. Turned his bedroom where died into a church. Also visited Baden (known for their hot spring baths), a monastery, and an underground lake. The lake is a result of a mine explosion that accidentally hit an underground spring in 1912. The mine was shut down until WW2 when Germans used to assemble planes (could stay hidden from enemies). Now, can take boat ride on lakes and throughout caverns. The water is extremely clear and supposedly drinkable.

Going to concert of Mozart & Strauss tonight & Schonbrun Castle tomorrow. Right now we are recuperating for a few hours. I would like to go out to my old house, but not sure I want to brave the cold. Anyway, there is a UN office there now, so likely not the same.

Will try to get one more email in before we leave on Tuesday morning. Auf Weidersehen!

Writing from Rijeka, Croatia, 11/03/2006

Left Plitvice yesterday after one more hike around the lower lakes. I had expected it to be grander, but to me it was just as beautiful as the upper lakes, but no more. Based on what I read, I believe the water is flowing less this time of year than in the Spring. However, I was glad I waited for the lower lakes. It rained Wed evening and night. Everything was wet and VERY cold (around freezing). It snowed lightly while we were hiking. Only took 3 hours to hike around the lakes - boy was I glad. I was tired and cold by the end.

Walked along side the lakes on the way down and then climbed up to the top of the cliffs for the return trip. The 100 or so steps up to the top were stone, wet, and covered in leaves; no hand rails (good thing it wasn´t the states, they would have been sued for sure). As many of you know, I tend to fall on steps (I fell hard going up the steps of a church in Prague). All the way up, I kept thinking "don´t fall, mom will really be mad if I die here", so I walked very carefully (it also gave me an excuse to stop and breath along the way)

Left for Rijeka in the afternoon. The drive was not bad, except periodically ran into light snow. We continued to see lots of abandoned and bombed out buildings. A couple of cities had what seemed to be memorials. As we got close to the coast again, we had lots of switchbacks - I was glad Cathy was driving. In one of the near-coastal cities, saw a cemetery that reminded me of New Orleans - everything was above ground in crypts.

Rijeka was not originally in our plans, but was trying to find a way to Venice for a few days since ahead of schedule and seen enough of the medieval castles. Unfortunately, Croatia closes all avenues out after 11/1. Seriously, all boats and most buses do not operate in the off-season. After several hours on the Internet, we decided to go to Vienna a few days early.

Spent the night in a hotel in Rijeka. It was okay, but definitely the worse place we have stayed yet. The shower has a hand-held spray. Not unusual for Europe, but usually, there is a holder for the sprayer. Not here. You had to hold it in your hand when when you needed it, then let it drop down to spray your feet. I was cold most of the night because the heat was not very strong, however the draft through the window was. Breakfast was as nice as any we have had. Spent as much for one night as we did for two nights in the "sobes" (means rooms in Croatian, what they call the private apartments/rooms we have stayed at).

So we are off to Pula today, and then flying to Vienna late afternoon. Hard to believe it has only been a little over a week since we arrived. Also hard to believe we will be leaving after Vienna. But I am looking forward to returning to "home". I never thought it would take 22 years to return. I am sure it will not be the same as I remember, but I look forward to being re-introduced to the city.

My time is up. Write you later.

Plitvice, Croatia, 11/01/2006

Well the rainy, cold weather the predicted finally arrived. Luckily we were able to get a full day in at the lakes before it got bad. It was overcast, but dry.

Walked all around the upper lakes (there are 16 in all, about half are in the upper group). I wanted to start with the upper for 2 reasons: 1) the lower are supposed to be the most spectacular, and I did not want to see them, then rush through the upper because they were not as exciting, and 2) I am hoping that it is sunny tomorrow and I get some great pictures of the lower falls.

Cathy and I started out on our walk. Unfortunately, we somehow got on the tram path instead of the walking path. Once we realized it (it was closer to the water), we made our own path down. We had to sit and scoot part of the way or risk falling. Later, we took the high path that goes up the mountains overlooking the lakes and once again got off the main path, so found an old path and made our way down. Needless to say, we broke the rule that said to stay on the paths. We did find that the easiest way to find the path is by following the trash cans that are frequent throughout the park. Unfortunately in the mountains, we must have run into a couple of old trash cans no longer used.

The falls are gorgeous. Lots of little and big ones. By the time we got back (5 hours later), I was exhausted. I sat in the room, reviewed pictures, and read for a while.

Really did not see any animals, but was told there is bear, otter, fox, birds, etc. Did see two ducks. They seemed a little aggressive when I got near the water, so I thought maybe they were protecting a nest (although it is out of season). Then we realized they were looking for food. Cathy had a pear with her, so she ripped of bites and fed them and the fish. They loved it, although one only wanted the pieces without the peel. Just like kids, huh?

I could walk around this land for days - the only thing I can complain about is the cold, but a front hit the whole country with this rain. However, I think Cathy is going to run out of steam after tomorrow, so we will probably leave in the afternoon. But who knows. We are a day ahead, so we can stay another day if we chose. Will depend on how long it takes to hike the lower falls.

Guess that's it, and my meter is out. Bye

Finally Arrived in Plitvice, Croatia, 10/31/2006

We were able to get a rental car and drove the back roads to Plitvice lakes. Made it with only one missed turn in Split, which took us through a park (pretty, with lots of trees, which has been rare where we have been, so did not mind the detour). The drive was interesting. Went through several small and medium sized towns. Saw kids walking home from school with backpacks - could almost have been home, except there were no sidewalks. Drove by an unusual church for this area. Made out of white plaster or something like that. The front had a tall rounded section about two to three stories high, with a cross taking up the whole area. Most of the churches in this area are older medieval type of buildings, making this really stand out.

Many of the towns on the way up were abandoned. I guess this area was heavily fought over by Bosnia and Croatia, so many moved away. Some of the area we drove through was flat, but most of the time we were driving through and around mountains. It is interesting, in Split all of the mountains looked gray and brown. Very little green, which I would have expected given their proximity to the Adriatic Sea. On our drive up, one side was similar to Split, while the other side of the road would have mountains covered in green trees. Not sure if this is because of the season or something to do with weather patterns.

Arrived in Plitvice right as the park was closing. Decided to eat dinner (5 pm), but found that the dining room did not open until 7. So started looking at some maps in the entry, and ran into an American (Kathy). Began talking to her, and it ended up being 7 before we knew it and she was going to dinner with some Americans she had met on the trail (Kay & Bob), so we joined them. Kathy is in her 50´s and traveling around the same areas we are by herself. She said when she married her husband, the agreement was that she could travel by herself if he did not want to go. She lives in Rochester, NY. Her husband was raised in Trotwood, OH (for those outside the family, my mom grew up and we went to church there). Kay and Bob have a house in Wooster area, but are teaching in Slovenia for a couple of years. They also lived in southern OH at one time. I felt like I was surrounded by people I should know based on the similarities with our family background.

It was interesting talking to Kay and Bob about some of the political and ethnic issues here. Where they live used to be part of Italy, but is now Slovenia. I guess the Italians treated the Slovenians horribly in the 19th C through WW2. Unfortunately, in a country thousands of years old, that is nothing, so the memories have been passed down through the generations and are very fresh.

So tomorrow, we begin to hike around the lakes. Our room has a balcony overlooking one of the lakes in the distance and I can hear the waterfalls from there. I can't wait to actually see them, but since everything closes around hear at 5 pm except dinner, I am having to wait.

Well need to go, my money in the Internet machine is running out. Write more later.