Special Edition - Iimpressions of Croatia, 11/06/2006

Meant to get this out right after we left Croatia, but forgot in the craziness of the first few days here. 

1. Sobe signs everywhere - rooms for rent in Croatian
2. No dryers - everyone hangs their clothes 
3. Many abandoned, crumbling buildings - combination of bombed out or old and not torn down 
4. Starless skies - always seems to be cloudy even when the day was clear (season?) 
5. Friendly tourists 
6. Small knives and huge spoons (bigger than our tablespoon) 
7. Western music everywhere 
8. Advertisements in English (8because it's cool) 
9. Really old buildings, really should say ancient since >1000 years is not unusual 
10. Stone or cobblestone sidewalks and streets 
11. Bare mountains (Romans stripped and never grew back)
12. Yellow city sign with name crossed out when leaving city 
13. Limited public toilets - if find one, must pay attendant to enter
14. Driving - all signs are ignored (speed, passing zones, etc.) & everyone parks on the sidewalk 
15. cigarette smoke - everyone smokes everywhere

Writing from Rijeka, Croatia, 11/03/2006

Left Plitvice yesterday after one more hike around the lower lakes. I had expected it to be grander, but to me it was just as beautiful as the upper lakes, but no more. Based on what I read, I believe the water is flowing less this time of year than in the Spring. However, I was glad I waited for the lower lakes. It rained Wed evening and night. Everything was wet and VERY cold (around freezing). It snowed lightly while we were hiking. Only took 3 hours to hike around the lakes - boy was I glad. I was tired and cold by the end.

Walked along side the lakes on the way down and then climbed up to the top of the cliffs for the return trip. The 100 or so steps up to the top were stone, wet, and covered in leaves; no hand rails (good thing it wasn´t the states, they would have been sued for sure). As many of you know, I tend to fall on steps (I fell hard going up the steps of a church in Prague). All the way up, I kept thinking "don´t fall, mom will really be mad if I die here", so I walked very carefully (it also gave me an excuse to stop and breath along the way)

Left for Rijeka in the afternoon. The drive was not bad, except periodically ran into light snow. We continued to see lots of abandoned and bombed out buildings. A couple of cities had what seemed to be memorials. As we got close to the coast again, we had lots of switchbacks - I was glad Cathy was driving. In one of the near-coastal cities, saw a cemetery that reminded me of New Orleans - everything was above ground in crypts.

Rijeka was not originally in our plans, but was trying to find a way to Venice for a few days since ahead of schedule and seen enough of the medieval castles. Unfortunately, Croatia closes all avenues out after 11/1. Seriously, all boats and most buses do not operate in the off-season. After several hours on the Internet, we decided to go to Vienna a few days early.

Spent the night in a hotel in Rijeka. It was okay, but definitely the worse place we have stayed yet. The shower has a hand-held spray. Not unusual for Europe, but usually, there is a holder for the sprayer. Not here. You had to hold it in your hand when when you needed it, then let it drop down to spray your feet. I was cold most of the night because the heat was not very strong, however the draft through the window was. Breakfast was as nice as any we have had. Spent as much for one night as we did for two nights in the "sobes" (means rooms in Croatian, what they call the private apartments/rooms we have stayed at).

So we are off to Pula today, and then flying to Vienna late afternoon. Hard to believe it has only been a little over a week since we arrived. Also hard to believe we will be leaving after Vienna. But I am looking forward to returning to "home". I never thought it would take 22 years to return. I am sure it will not be the same as I remember, but I look forward to being re-introduced to the city.

My time is up. Write you later.

Plitvice, Croatia, 11/01/2006

Well the rainy, cold weather the predicted finally arrived. Luckily we were able to get a full day in at the lakes before it got bad. It was overcast, but dry.

Walked all around the upper lakes (there are 16 in all, about half are in the upper group). I wanted to start with the upper for 2 reasons: 1) the lower are supposed to be the most spectacular, and I did not want to see them, then rush through the upper because they were not as exciting, and 2) I am hoping that it is sunny tomorrow and I get some great pictures of the lower falls.

Cathy and I started out on our walk. Unfortunately, we somehow got on the tram path instead of the walking path. Once we realized it (it was closer to the water), we made our own path down. We had to sit and scoot part of the way or risk falling. Later, we took the high path that goes up the mountains overlooking the lakes and once again got off the main path, so found an old path and made our way down. Needless to say, we broke the rule that said to stay on the paths. We did find that the easiest way to find the path is by following the trash cans that are frequent throughout the park. Unfortunately in the mountains, we must have run into a couple of old trash cans no longer used.

The falls are gorgeous. Lots of little and big ones. By the time we got back (5 hours later), I was exhausted. I sat in the room, reviewed pictures, and read for a while.

Really did not see any animals, but was told there is bear, otter, fox, birds, etc. Did see two ducks. They seemed a little aggressive when I got near the water, so I thought maybe they were protecting a nest (although it is out of season). Then we realized they were looking for food. Cathy had a pear with her, so she ripped of bites and fed them and the fish. They loved it, although one only wanted the pieces without the peel. Just like kids, huh?

I could walk around this land for days - the only thing I can complain about is the cold, but a front hit the whole country with this rain. However, I think Cathy is going to run out of steam after tomorrow, so we will probably leave in the afternoon. But who knows. We are a day ahead, so we can stay another day if we chose. Will depend on how long it takes to hike the lower falls.

Guess that's it, and my meter is out. Bye

Finally Arrived in Plitvice, Croatia, 10/31/2006

We were able to get a rental car and drove the back roads to Plitvice lakes. Made it with only one missed turn in Split, which took us through a park (pretty, with lots of trees, which has been rare where we have been, so did not mind the detour). The drive was interesting. Went through several small and medium sized towns. Saw kids walking home from school with backpacks - could almost have been home, except there were no sidewalks. Drove by an unusual church for this area. Made out of white plaster or something like that. The front had a tall rounded section about two to three stories high, with a cross taking up the whole area. Most of the churches in this area are older medieval type of buildings, making this really stand out.

Many of the towns on the way up were abandoned. I guess this area was heavily fought over by Bosnia and Croatia, so many moved away. Some of the area we drove through was flat, but most of the time we were driving through and around mountains. It is interesting, in Split all of the mountains looked gray and brown. Very little green, which I would have expected given their proximity to the Adriatic Sea. On our drive up, one side was similar to Split, while the other side of the road would have mountains covered in green trees. Not sure if this is because of the season or something to do with weather patterns.

Arrived in Plitvice right as the park was closing. Decided to eat dinner (5 pm), but found that the dining room did not open until 7. So started looking at some maps in the entry, and ran into an American (Kathy). Began talking to her, and it ended up being 7 before we knew it and she was going to dinner with some Americans she had met on the trail (Kay & Bob), so we joined them. Kathy is in her 50´s and traveling around the same areas we are by herself. She said when she married her husband, the agreement was that she could travel by herself if he did not want to go. She lives in Rochester, NY. Her husband was raised in Trotwood, OH (for those outside the family, my mom grew up and we went to church there). Kay and Bob have a house in Wooster area, but are teaching in Slovenia for a couple of years. They also lived in southern OH at one time. I felt like I was surrounded by people I should know based on the similarities with our family background.

It was interesting talking to Kay and Bob about some of the political and ethnic issues here. Where they live used to be part of Italy, but is now Slovenia. I guess the Italians treated the Slovenians horribly in the 19th C through WW2. Unfortunately, in a country thousands of years old, that is nothing, so the memories have been passed down through the generations and are very fresh.

So tomorrow, we begin to hike around the lakes. Our room has a balcony overlooking one of the lakes in the distance and I can hear the waterfalls from there. I can't wait to actually see them, but since everything closes around hear at 5 pm except dinner, I am having to wait.

Well need to go, my money in the Internet machine is running out. Write more later.

Split, Croatia, 10/30/2006

Took the bus to split. Danica was up to see us off. She waited at the bus stop for us to make sure we got on the right bus. Definitely a grandma. The trip wasn't too bad. Given the winding, narrow roads along the shore, I was glad we were not driving. When we got to Split, we were accosted by people trying to get us to stay in their rooms for rent. It was a real mob scene. Luckily, we already had plans, or I am not sure which I would have trusted.

Met a couple at dinner last night. I recognized them as Americans and asked where they were from (Austin). We lucked out in meeting them. They had just come from Split and had found a lady who had a very clean room. They gave us her email address, so we sent her a note last night and she responded that she had a room. She is around 50, with several rooms throughout the city. The room is small, but nice, and the price is great (~$40 for both of us for the night). We also have a kitchenette area and a washing machine that we share with 3 other rooms. We have a private bath (some don't). Given we are in the room so seldom, it is perfect for us.

Tomorrow we leave for Plitvice Lakes. We are going to get a stick shift, so Cathy is going to drive and me navigate. You know me and my maps, and I never miss a chance to tell someone what to do.

Walked around Diocletian's castle today. Really, it is mostly in ruins, except for columns here and there and a few structures. Were able to visit the mausoleum that he built for himself, now a church named after one of the Christians he killed (he hated Christianity). Ironic, huh? The other area I visited is the basement. Because it was used to dump waste during medieval times, no one went down there, so it survived. The have great arched ceilings even down there (but no longer any waste).

Other than that, the only thing Split has is long rows of market. Even there, mostly reminds me of flea market, but not much worth buying.

Although it was 60's today, it is extremely windy right now (weather forecasts said gusts up to 30 mph). Tomorrows supposed to be high 60's. I love it! I expect to lose most of Wednesday to rain, but maybe we will luck out.

I have now been told twice that my name (Busic) is from Croatia - both in Dubrovnik and in Split. They pronounce it with a "ch" sound at the end. Both said it is a very popular surname here (I think the lady in Split said it is one of the most popular, but her English was not always easy to understand). Given I was told the same thing in Budapest years ago, either people immigrated or I am highly wanted [as an ancestor].

I am watching the sun set on the Adriatic through the Internet cafe window as I am typing. It is a beautiful orange. I do love the water, and am getting lots of chances to spend time near it. I can't wait for Plitvice. I hope we are able to go on the boat ride I heard about, given the season (we have already run into a few issues with being out of season; In Dubrovnik, I was told not everything would have remained open, however they new a Royal Caribbean cruise was coming yesterday.

Anyway, email you again soon.

Oh, and yes mom, your daughter is doing fine.

And On To Dubrovnik, Croatia..., 10/29/2006

Dubrovnik is sunny and beautiful!  Yesterday was mid 70's, and today at least high 70's.  I was really sad to hear it was snowing back home (ha).  But I did hear the temperature is dropping into the 60's for the rest of the week throughout Croatia, so I made sure to enjoy every moment of it today.


Walked all around the old town and around the perimeter on top of the wall that surrounds the city.  It is strange to think that people walked this same place over 1000 years ago.  What is hard to believe is that people still live in these houses.  Their rooms are small and my guess is that there are issues (although there are lights, kitchens, and in some cases air conditioning units).  Still, it is a great place to visit, but would be tough to live.  Saw a park high up in the old town with a couple of kids playing.  Reminded me of the parks from when I was a kid, although much smaller.


Looked in several shops, but everything is extremely commercialized - obviously geared for the tourists.  We kept hearing western music all over the place - both in shops and private homes.  Okay, the music is about a decade old, but familiar.  And like in Prague, a few guys have wanted to dance or sing with me.  Is it just that I am one of the few < 60 years old, or do I look like I like to party?


My favorite part is just the beauty of the shore.  It was beautiful along the top of the city wall.  It is great to sit along some old castle high up and listen to the waves hit below.


Found a room to stay in.  We were just walking down the street and some lady asked if we wanted a room.  I was very suspicious at first, but the room is clean, includes a balcony, is two minutes from the old town, and 4 doorways from the Internet cafe.  Who could ask for more.  She has provided us with juice for breakfast, washed & dried a load of clothes, and has gone out of her way to accommodate us.  She seemed light on English, so I asked if she knew German, now she thinks she should talk to me in German.  Luckily, her German is not great either, so I can keep up.  Too bad we can´t take her with us to take care of us in the rest of Croatia.


Had wine and cheese for dinner last night.  Found a restaurant on the main drag in the old city.  Got to see the end of a wedding.  The bride and groom came down the steps of the church and then danced while everyone sang national songs and waived flags.  The musicians were a guitar and accordion player (made me think of my old praise team buddies).  Later we saw what must have been a bachelorette party - everyone was dressed up except for one girl in a pink wig and tacky pink dress.


Ate lunch at a restaurant at the port.  Good for watching the sea and the people.  Walked all day again.  I swear I walked hundreds of steps (my guess well over 800; I counted over 200 just in the last hour).  Put in a full day again, but are ready to leave and see more of Croatia this way.


Ice cream has been huge in both Prague and Dubrovnik.  Everyday I eat an ice cream cone (usually it is lunch).  The flavors are very unique - Tiramisu, Creme Brulee, Caramel with pinenuts.  Oh, and several kinds with chocolate that Cathy has tried and says is good.


Had hoped to take a boat to Split, but found out the boat only goes to Split on Thursday.  So we are taking a bus tomorrow.  Plan to get the car a day earlier than expected - will allow us to be more leisurely heading north.